So here's the latest update to the big stereo rig. I've posted before about the rig (Alembic F2-B feeding an ELF-1 feeding stereo power amps driving a pair of Eden D210XST extended range cabs for the "upper" end and a pair of Bag-End S18's for the "low" end). The whole system was built with the goal of hearing "pure" Alembic tone, so I don't play much with effects. I had a Line 6 Bass Pod XT Live, but was never satisfied with the tone or the flexibility (kinda like television - 200 channels and nothing interesting to watch).
I've had a Sonic Research Turbo Tuner (true strobe) stomp for several years, along with a Q-Tron for fun. I got interested in playing with a looper watching some of Kimberly's videos with her Epic 6. EH recently came out with a "freeze" pedal that allows you to sustain a note or chord infinitely and play over it which is something I've wanted to do for awhile. From there it's a short jump to a phaser, reverb pedal, and a volume pedal and the need for a pedal board.
It doesn't take much to prompt me to make something custom if I can't find exactly what I want for the price I want. I built the board out of some scrap oak 1 x 2's I had. I bought an expanded steel grate from Home Depot for about $8 and screwed it underneath the oak rails so I could use tie wraps instead of velcro for better security and no residual goo on the pedals.
The Q-Tron uses 24v which is a bit unusual and most DC power blocks only offer 9v, 12v, and/or 18v. I also wasn't crazy about the cost, and the board needs a fair amount of current, so I found a hefty transformer capable of 12v and 24v and with a few additional parts got a stout linear multi-voltage power supply exactly like I wanted. Total cost: about $60.
The phaser, reverb, looper and volume pedal are all stereo, and I wanted to maintain a true stereo signal path as much as possible. Unfortunately, the tuner, freeze pedal and Q-Tron are mono only, but that led to the most fun part of the project. The blue box on the right is an input switcher / combiner / splitter. The green LED indicates stereo through the stereo components and out to the F2-B, bypassing the mono devices. Step on the switch gives you a red LED and internally combines the L and R signal at the input to the board, (neck and bridge pickups just like the stereo / mono switch on the bass or the DS5R), then routes it through the tuner, freeze pedal and Q-Tron, back through the blue box where it splits the combined signal to feed both the L and R signal paths through the stereo pedals and then into the L and R preamp and amplifier chains.
If you want to build any custom stomp box, I have to give huge props to Connie at www.pedalpartsplus.com. They're a family business in Louisiana with amazing customer service (sound familiar?), and not only had many of the parts I needed at the best prices, but drilled and painted the box to my specs for about $15. Total switcher / combiner / splitter cost was about $50.
I'm still learning how to use it to best effect, but I'm having a blast doing so. It's a genuinely useful bass pedal board that works great with the stereo rig, and as an added bonus, one stomp provides a mono path that allows you to use it with guitar!
John
Nice board, John. The grating works great, (pardon the pun), for attaching the pedals. If you can handle some simple soldering, you could also run the patch cords underneath. I know if I used your board I'd be clumsy enough to eventually step on the loops hanging off the front. Even better, and easier, than soldering would be to use George L or similar solderless connectors. They work especially well for pedal boards where they aren't subjected to a lot of movement. Here's the one I put together using a Temple Audio board which is made of a similar perforated material.
Bill, tgo
http://club.alembicguitars.net/index.php?topic=16323.msg164797#msg164797 (http://club.alembicguitars.net/index.php?topic=16323.msg164797#msg164797)
That is, without a doubt, the coolest pedalboard I've ever seen!! (Ofcourse, being a woodworker sort of makes me a bit biased...)
Thanks, Bill. Yes, I love the smell of burning rosin in the morning ;D
Thought about George L's and routing underneath - certainly cleaner - just didn't pull the trigger. I can't leave anything alone, so that's probably next once I decide I like the configuration and functionality.
Thanks, Dan. I'm a long-time amateur woodworker and come from a long line of them so I come by it honestly. While oak's not a light wood, the board as configured is not any heavier than any professional board. Also very simple - other than the 3 risers in the front, everything is a square 90 degree cut.
John
Nice!
+1 on the George L's. I'm using cables I made over 16 years ago and have had only one failure - two weeks ago. I simply removed the failed cable, cut both ends with a sharp blade, reinserted the ends back into the jacks, tightened the little screws and was back in business.