Jimmy one more thing, did you remove the bridge while you were doing this, I can as the same about other topic.... did you also removed the nut while you were making them deeper?

Oh I just saw your post again, you did.... ok ... getting a bit nervous for doing that

Yes as I said in the other thread, I did remove both nut and bridge when I was working on them.  But truthfully, I was being a little overcautious.  I didn't want to nick other parts of the bridge or otherwise scratch up the bass.  Also, your Series nut may be glued in place so that would not be easy to remove. 

I would say that you could easily work on these pieces while still mounted on the bass if you're just careful.  I'd still suggest moving the saddles you want to adjust all the way towards the tailpiece before you do any shaving, and maybe work the "string on a block" file only in the direction of the tailpiece and slightly angled downward.  Make sense?  You'll know it's working because you'll see some brass dust appear.

Jimmy J

If I need to work on nut slots and want to do it without removing the nut, I use a thin feeler gauge just behind the nut (tuner side) to protect the wood from the nut file just incase I slip. (What, me slip?  You don't want to know - lol).

Bill, tgo

And de aware that saddle's metal dust may be atracted to the PUs magnets or find a way to the electronics. You should cover them before griding brass over it.

When I tried playing a 5 string years ago I had much of the problems talked about here. Of course the bass I had wasn't Alembic. That B string caused me nothing but problems no matter what I did. If I got the E and the A right the B was off. Forget what happened if I got the D and G right. The other major problem I had was I kept thinking the B was the E string when I was playing. So after working around these issues for a while I came up with the perfect solution. I went back to a four string. Problems solved!