I have been waiting for an answer for about a month now, I still don't know... Now it is urgent and important!
 
- Would anyone know what bit size is needed to drill, for getting those inserts in properly (PUs and back plate/truss rod cover/PU selector inserts)?  
 
My bass is under the bench at the moment and the luthier is a bit nervous using those inserts, when he tried previously on my first Arialembic he split them  and gave up, and reused the old ones. I want him to do it properly this time.
 
I also noticed that those inserts are slotted, yet, when looking at them on Alembic basses, I cannot see the slot, so it looks like they are being screwed in upside down using a special tool.  
 
Anyone?
 
Thanks,
LG

Hi Louis-Gino,
 
Your question does not have a simple answer. I have not been available to produce a detailed tutorial, which it's apparent you will need in install the inserts correctly.  
 
Today I spoke with James, and he is going to coordinate with me for the next inserts he installs so that I can document and photograph the procedure. It's more than just drilling the right sized hole (although it's a good start).
 
Today, he was not installing any inserts. Maybe tomorrow!

Hi Mica,
 
Thanks, I understand perfectly.  
 
The thing is the luthier is put on hold at the moment, because I told him to wait until I get back to him with exact measurements.  
Believe me, he kinda fears this procedure.  
 
Meanwhile, he cannot really move on because of that. But that's fine, I much prefer to wait again, as opposed to have him start and not doing it properly. So, I'll call him again tomorrow and will tell him to wait a bit more before he starts on this.  
 
I have asked him to do all possible inserts points on the bass, PUs, truss rod, back plate... I am even thinking of doing the bridge, as it gets tarnished very quickly, and it would be nice to take if off without further damaging the threads on the wood. Anyway, I really look forward to some relevant details/explanations regarding this mysterious procedure.  
 
But as you said, drilling the right holes is a good start, and if I could have those dimensions before the more advanced part, at least he could start drilling, and I could put the inserts myself at later stage. I would have drilled myself, but I don't have a press.

I'll include the drill sizes with the whole procedure - you and he should read the whole procedure first before you drill anything. It can avoid some unneccesary rework!
 
We'll be documenting both the plate and the pickup inserts.

Thank you, I am definitely going to tell him all that, and count on me, I'll do the reading for him. He won't escape any of the right procedures this time!

Fantastic!, please fill me in as I need to do this same thing for my Series1.

Great, I am not the only weirdo  LOL

Absolutely not! There's more of us than you realize. Whooooooooo!

Nice to hear that!
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Check the FAQ for the installation instructions. Hope they help!

Cool tutorial.  Well done. I love the big prohibited sign on the screwdriver in the last pic.

Mica, thank you so much
 
I didn't expect to see what I saw, it's amazing what one can achieve with a combination of simplicity and being creative as well!
 
I had a different idea, I thought you were using a special custom tool for that, I was far from it.
 
I have spent some time designing a little tool for you, that's what I thought you were using. If you like it and find it useful, why not trying to make something similar. The drawing is a bit primitive, but I am sure you'll get the idea.  
 
Was wondering the size of the bit for the PUs inserts?  
 
Thanks,
LG
 

Well, we actually do use a different tool for the job, but most folks that are only going to modify a single instrument won't want to spend $90 on a tool for such a specific purpose.  
 
The sizes for the pickup inserts are included at the end of the post. Hope it helps.

Just a little addendum, if thought you could even use a more passive design, where you don't have to press at the top to get the bits in, the bits could use a spring system, so you could simply pull the tool, and they would retract by themselves, although the edges/corners of the bits would have to be rounded... Just some constructive thoughts...

I see, I just read you last post! Well, it's clear now